Just because it's free - doesn't mean it's beneficial!

Below is email correspondence between myself and the Executive Director of the organisation that sponsors the Look Good Feel Better Program: the Cosmetics, Toiletries & Fragrances Association of New Zealand (CTFA).

The CTFA represent various businesses within the beauty and cosmetics industry. The CTFA have a charity called Look Good Feel Better. Look Good Feel Better offers makeup workshop to women undergoing treatment for cancer - or who are suffering from the appearance-related effects of cancer.

I'm sharing my recent correspondence between myself and the Exec. Director of the CTFA as a record of our dialogue and an insight for you, my readers, into what my mission is: to encourage women toward a healthy, intelligent pursuit of personal beauty AND to publicly educate women about beauty products and the cosmetics industry. You can read more about my values and mission on this page.

I see the massive benefit of what LGFB is doing and am proud to be a makeup artist volunteer in their Tauranga workshops - and I certainly don't wish the CTFA or LGFB any harm - but I do believe that not all beauty products are helpful to skin and that the CTFA as an authority has a responsibility to...well, I'll let you read for yourself. So here it is:

  A Beautiful Education wrote: Good evening Garth, I've recently joined as a makeup artist volunteer for the CTFA-sponsored Look Good Feel Better workshops in Tauranga. I've been aware of the CTFA and the work of LGFB since I started my business as a makeup artist and personal makeup coach early 2007. I am happy to finally be involved. :-)

However, I am writing to bring your attention to one donated product we used in a recent workshop that I believe does more harm than good to skin. Denatured alcohol is the second ingredient in the Nivea Visage Refreshing Toner. In cosmetics, as you may know, alcohol (SD alcohol, methanol, ethanol, or benzyl alcohol) is a skin irritant, generates free radical damage causing cell death and damages the skin's barrier. These facts have been demonstrated by extensive public research and it is for these reasons I believe this product (or any with alcohol as a main ingredient) is not fit to be part of anyone's skin care routine, let alone that of women suffering the effects of cancer (and its treatments) who are at greater risk of skin sensitivity and irritation.

I do not know whether the products donated by the CTFA are surplus or from discontinued lines. It would make sense for that to be the case. I am aware the Nivea Visage range has been discontinued in the U.S and wonder if that's why this product has ended up in the hands of LGFB. If this is the case, would you please overlook this, in favour of providing less-irritating and safer products to these women?

Consumers don't always know what is good (or harmful) for them and I believe it is the responsibility of industry professionals like ourselves to defend and/or educate them.

I would like you to substitute this toner for an alcohol-free formula. There is a similar-looking alcohol-free toner in the Nivea range. I ask that the new toner not contain alcohol and be free from common skin irritants such as fragrance, menthol, peppermint etc. This should apply to all skin care items offered to LGFB by your association. Also, the current toner should be 'recalled' from the LGFB workshops where it is currently in use, to be sent back to the CTFA and/or discarded.

I believe it is within your power to make these changes for the good of the women you seek to help. I look forward to receiving your reply. Regards, Lillybeth Melmoth www.abeautifuleducation.co.nz

 Sources: Clinical Experimental Dermatology, September 2009, online, Journal of Occupational Medicine and Toxicology, November 2008, page 26; Alcohol Research and Health, 2003, Volume 27, Issue 4, pages 277-284).

From the Desk of Garth Wyllie Executive Director Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association of New Zealand: Dear Lillybeth, Thank you for your comments on products containing alcohol. There is no substance to small percentages of denatured alcohol damaging cells and while in large amounts it could be argued that any ingredient could be an irritant there are strict controls on the levels that an cosmetic may contain under both industry guidance and within the Cosmetic Group Standard Regulation.

Companies donate products voluntarily and we encourage them to provide any end of line products as well as newer products when these are available. Most cosmetics contain so called skin irritants such as fragrances however these are at levels that there is no normal irritation and in many cases the products are developed to provide other ingredients that negate any irritation.

Cosmetic products must be safe by law and those sold in New Zealand are compliant to the best regulations available and those offered to LGFB are also compliant irrespective of whether they are end of line or not. Let me say that your contribution to Look Good Feel Better is valued as the charity does great work and I would hope that regardless of products supplied this will continue. Yours Sincerely Garth Wyllie Executive Director

  A Beautiful Education wrote: Hi again Garth, Quote:"Cosmetic products must be safe by law and those sold in New Zealand are compliant to the best regulations available and those offered to LGFB are also compliant irrespective of whether they are end of line or not." Yes I agree most products on the market are 'safe', meaning they aren't toxic when applied to the skin, but there are thousands of cosmetic products which are ill-formulated and not helpful to skin. No regulation prevents this.

I understand alcohol is an effective carrier that enables other ingredients to better reach the skin but this is at the expense of stripping away the natural protective oils on the surface of the skin. Most toners/fresheners are made with oily or combination skin in mind. These women typically have dry skin, a lack of sebum and are concerned about the feeling of tightness that accompanies dry skin. They do not need any 'clarifying' toner and would be better off without this product. It wasn't made with them in mind and it is irresponsible to supply them with unsuitable products.

Please reconsider my requests and pledge to only supply products that can be included in a gentle skin care routine - 'gentle' being suitable for ALL skin types and conditions. Regards, Lillybeth Melmoth.


Note: No further reply has been received, but Garth did CC his reply to a LGFB staff member. Also, the above has not been edited in any way.